Recipes
Natasha Pickowicz’s Passion Fruit, Coconut & Tequila Layer Cake
Makes one 8-inch layer cake
This cake is always a hit, as popular with couples who want a boozy wedding finale as with friends looking for a really good time. I like to call this cake the Sammy Hagar, in honor of his iconic tequila Cabo Wabo. I prefer to age layer cakes at least 2 or even 3 days, so all the harmonious flavors can mingle and marry.
Image Credits
Photo by Graydon Herriot
Ingredients
- 1 cup (240 grams) cold heavy cream
For THE vanilla sponge cake
- 6 eggs (300 grams), well chilled (see tip #2)
- ¾ cup (150 grams) sugar
- 1 tablespoon (15 grams) vanilla extract
- ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons (105 grams) all-purpose flour
- ½ teaspoon kosher salt
FOR tequila and coconut soak
- ¾ cup (180 grams) unsweetened full-fat coconut milk
- ¼ cup (60 grams) tequila
for the passionfruit and olive oil curd
- 1 sheet (2.5 grams) silver-strength gelatin or 1 teaspoon unflavored gelatin powder
- ½ cup (120 grams) passion fruit puree (or ½ cup of 100% passion fruit juice)
- 1 cup (200 grams) sugar
- 2 teaspoons cornstarch or tapioca starch
- ½ teaspoon kosher salt
- 2 eggs (100 grams)
- 2 large egg yolks (40 grams)
- ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon (75 grams) extra-virgin olive oil
for the vanilla bean swiss buttercream
- 4 large egg whites (120 grams)
- 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar
- ⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon (48 grams) powdered sugar
- 1 vanilla bean
- 10½ ounces (300 grams) unsalted butter, cubed, at room temperature
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
Method
- Preheat the oven and prep the pan. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Line a half-sheet pan with parchment paper (see tip #1).
- Whip the egg yolks. Crack the eggs one by one into a small bowl, plucking out each yolk with clean fingertips as you go. Transfer the yolks to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk (or to a large bowl if using a handheld mixer). Set the egg whites aside. Add ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (75 grams) of the sugar to the yolks and whip on high speed until buttery yellow, at least 5 minutes. Stream in 2 teaspoons of the vanilla and whip to combine. Pour this mixture into a large wide bowl and set aside.
- Make the meringue. Clean the mixer bowl well and pour in the egg whites. Whip on high speed until they begin to foam and turn white. With the mixer running, slowly stream in the remaining ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (75 grams) sugar. Continue to whip on high speed until the mixture is climbing to the top of the bowl and the meringue holds a soft, floppy peak (see tip #3), about 4 minutes. To check this, detach the whisk, dunk it into the meringue, and then turn it over; the meringue crest should flop over on its side but not be drippy. Stream the remaining 1 teaspoon vanilla into the meringue, whipping to combine.
- Add the flour. As soon as the meringue is ready, work quickly to sift the flour and salt on top of the whipped yolks. The mixture will be very stiff; work it with a spatula or spoon to incorporate the flour completely. Immediately add one-third of the meringue mixture and gently stir to combine. Add the rest of the meringue, and fold to combine (see tip #4). The batter should be very loose and billowy.
- Bake the cake. Pour the batter into the sheet pan and smooth the surface with an offset spatula. Transfer to the oven and bake until the center of the cake springs back with a poke, 15 minutes. Let cool completely, then use a paring knife to loosen and remove the cake from the pan. Wrap the cake, still on its parchment, well in plastic wrap and store at room temperature for up to 3 days or in the freezer for up to 3 weeks.
- TIP 1: For the tallest, lightest sponge, do not grease your pans or use pans with nonstick surfaces. Because there is no chemical leavener, it has to be able to grip the sides of the pan in order to climb.
- TIP 2: Chilled eggs make for an airy sponge (they also make it easier to separate the yolks from the whites).
- TIP 3: Do not overbeat the meringue! If the meringue gets overly stiff, or looks curdled, it will be difficult to fold into the yolk mixture. In a pinch, I’ll slip in an extra egg white and beat it again, which helps smooth out the texture. But always err on the side of underbeating a meringue—the network of air bubbles in a meringue is surprisingly strong, and the cake batter will still lift and rise in the oven.
- TIP 4: Fold confidently and with strength! It’s better to make ten powerful, urgent folds than thirty half-hearted ones.
- In a screw-top jar, combine the coconut milk and tequila and shake until smooth. Seal and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. Gently rewarm in a pot or in the microwave before applying to a cake.
- Bloom the gelatin. If using sheet gelatin, fill a medium bowl with ice cubes, then cover them with water. Slip the gelatin in and let soften until ready to use. If using powdered gelatin, put the granules in a small dish containing 1 tablespoon of water and let sit for 5 minutes.
- Melt the sugar. In a medium saucepan, combine the passion fruit juice and ¾ cup (150 grams) of the sugar. Gently bring up to the barest simmer, stirring to lift and dissolve the sugar. Don’t let the mixture boil!
- Activate the cornstarch. In a small bowl, whisk together 1 tablespoon (15 grams) of the sugar, the cornstarch, and salt. Add a ladleful of the hot passion fruit syrup and whisk to form a paste-like slurry. Pour the slurry into the saucepan and whisk well. Cook for 1 minute to thicken, no longer.
- Make the custard. In the bowl you just used for the cornstarch, combine the whole eggs, egg yolks, and the remaining 3 tablespoons (45 grams) sugar. Whisk well to combine. While whisking the egg mixture constantly, stream in several ladlefuls of the hot passion fruit syrup. Transfer the warmed egg mixture to the pan and stir constantly with a spatula over medium heat until the mixture has thickened enough to thickly coat the back of your spoon and the foam has melted away, 3 to 4 minutes, then remove from the heat. (Overcooking the curd can actually “break” the cornstarch and loosen the mixture.) Wring the excess water from the bloomed gelatin and whisk it in until it has fully melted into the custard, or scrape in the powdered gelatin mixture and stir to combine.
- Finish the curd. Whisking constantly, stream in the olive oil until well combined. Pass the curd through a fine-mesh sieve into a small bowl. Press a small piece of plastic wrap directly on the curd as it cools. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks or in the freezer for up to 2 months.
- TIP: Substitute any high-acid citrus, like lemon, Meyer lemon, lime, and grapefruit for the passion fruit juice. If you are using fresh whole citrus, for extra oomph, grate the zest into the sugar and juice before cooking, then strain it out at the end.
- Cook the egg whites. In a heatproof medium bowl, combine the egg whites and granulated sugar and whisk well. Set the bowl over a pot of steaming-hot (but not simmering) water, and whisk until the mixture is hot and the temperature is 115°F (45°C), 4 to 5 minutes.
- Beat the meringue. Transfer the mixture to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk (or to a large bowl if using a handheld mixer) and whip on high speed until slightly cooled, about 2 minutes. Turn the mixer off and add the powdered sugar. Whip on medium-high speed; the meringue should look glossy and stiff.
- Harvest the vanilla seeds. Use a small sharp knife to halve the vanilla bean lengthwise, pry open the halves, and use the knife to scrape the vanilla seeds out into the meringue. Whip to combine, about 1 minute.
- Add the butter. With the mixer running on medium-high speed, add the cubed butter, piece by piece, over 3 to 4 minutes. The buttercream may look like it will break, but keep beating; it will come back together. Add the salt and beat the buttercream for another 5 minutes. Use immediately or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.
- To ice a cake. When ready to ice a layer cake, let the buttercream come to room temperature for at least 2 hours (or overnight) and then re-whip for 5 minutes so it is fluffy and light.
- Prep the cake mold. Line a deep 8-inch (20 centimeters) round cake pan (at least 3 inches/7.5 centimeters deep), a springform pan, or a saucepan with straight sides with plastic wrap, being sure that the wrap has plenty of overhang.
- Cut out the cake layers. Using a small serrated knife and the bottom of the cake mold as a guide, trace an 8-inch (20 centimeters) circle on the upper left-hand corner of the sheet. Trace another 8-inch (20 centimeters) circle on the lower right-hand corner of the sponge sheet. Carefully cut out the rounds with the knife and set aside. Use the bottom of the cake mold to trace a half-moon shape on the upper right-hand corner of the sheet, and then another one on the lower left-hand corner of the sheet, and cut these out. Finally, cut out a rectangle 8 inches (20 centimeters) long and 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) wide from the center of the sheet. You’ll piece these 3 scraps together to form a circle for the center layer of the cake. (See illustration on page 141.)
- Whip the cream. In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk (or in a large bowl using a handheld mixer), whip the heavy cream until stiff, about 3 minutes. Keep chilled until ready to build the cake.
- Build the cake. Place one round cake layer in the bottom of the plastic wrap–lined pan. Dab ¼ cup (60 grams) of the tequila coconut soak onto the cake. Add ⅔ cup (160 grams) of the passion fruit curd and spread it evenly. (If the curd feels overly stiff in the container, work it a bit with a small offset spatula or spoon to make it easier to spread.) Spoon half of the whipped cream on top and gently smooth and press it out to the edges. (To avoid lifting up any of the coconut crumbs, dab the cream in spoonfuls all over the surface and gently press down to smooth.) Arrange the two half-moons and the rectangular piece on top to form a round, then add ¼ cup (60 grams) soak. Layer ⅔ cup (160 grams) of curd and the other half of the whipped cream on top. Finally, place the second round on top to seal the cake shut, and brush the remaining ¼ cup (60 grams) soak on top. (You will have about ⅔ cup/160 grams passion fruit curd left over, which you need for the buttercream.) Securely wrap the entire cake form in plastic wrap and transfer to the refrigerator to rest for at least 8 hours (or longer; see tip) or to the freezer for at least 5 hours, or up to 3 days, so the flavors can meld.
- Mix the passion fruit buttercream. After the cake has rested, it will be stable enough to be iced. In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk, whip the buttercream until smooth, about 2 minutes. Add the remaining passion fruit curd and whip until smooth, glossy, and thick, another 3 minutes.
- Frost the cake. Invert the chilled cake onto a platter or a 10-inch (25 centimeters) cardboard cake round. (If you have a cake turntable, place the cake, resting on a cardboard round, on the center of the turntable.) Remove the cake form, then peel off the plastic wrap. Use an offset spatula to dollop half of the whipped buttercream all over the surface of the cake. Spread the buttercream all the way to the edges of the cake. Dab the remaining buttercream along the sides of the cake, smoothing each dab to touch the one before, until none of the cake is visible. Once the sides of the cake are roughly covered in buttercream, run the offset spatula along the surface again to smooth. Then run the offset spatula along the sides of the cake, where the excess buttercream will have gathered, to wipe away excess frosting.
- Decorate the cake. Scatter the flower petals or leaves over the surface of the cake, letting them fall in a natural way. The cake can sit out in a cool environment for 5 to 6 hours, but on a hot day, beware of greasy-looking icing. And the cake tastes best if the slices are still slightly chilled. If the cake was fully frozen before icing, allow at least 4 hours to thaw before serving.
- TIP: I prefer to age layer cakes at least 2 or even 3 days, so all the harmonious flavors can mingle and marry.
For the vanilla sponge cake
For the tequila and coconut soak
For the passion fruit and olive oil curd
For the vanilla bean swiss buttercream
For the passion fruit, coconut, and tequila cake
Divider
Excerpted from More Than Cake by Natasha Pickowicz. Published by Artisan Books. Copyright © 2023. Photograph by Graydon Herriot.Links
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