Joanne Chang's Sticky Sticky Buns
Makes 8 buns
Flour’s addictive sticky buns have been famous in Boston for many years, but they got national attention in the spring of 2007, when they starred in an episode of the Food Network show Throwdown with Bobby Flay. I went head-to-head with Chef Flay in a sticky bun bakeoff—in front of TV cameras and a live audience of about 100 customers at Flour. After we both finished baking our buns, for an agonizing hour customers were quizzed about which buns they preferred, mine or Chef Flay’s, while the judges privately did their judging. We won! Many people wonder if the judging on television shows is fixed; the visible sweat on my brow during the judging should assure them that it is most definitely not. These sticky buns are quite simply the stickiest, richest, gooiest, most decadent buns you’ll ever have. We start them with a brioche dough base and then fill them with sugar, pecans, and cinnamon and top them with copious amounts of a sticky caramel concoction called, naturally, goo. When you eat them, be sure to have plenty of napkins nearby. These are best enjoyed warm from the oven; you can also re-heat them up to 1 day later in a 300-degree oven for 5 to 7 minutes to get the full ooey gooey effect.
Image Credits
Photo by Kristin Teig
Ingredients
For THE sticky buns
- Basic Brioche dough (recipe follows)
- ¼ cup (60 grams) light brown sugar
- ¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar
- ⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1 cup (100 grams) pecan halves, toasted and chopped
- 1 recipe Goo (recipe follows)
FOR THE BASIC BRIOCHE DOUGH
- Makes 2 loaves
- 2½ cups (350 grams) all-purpose flour
- 2½ cups (375 grams) high-gluten bread flour
- 1½ packages (3¼ teaspoons) active dry yeast or 28 grams fresh cake yeast
- ⅓ cup plus 2 tablespoons (92 grams) sugar
- 1 tablespoon salt
- ⅔ cup cold water
- 5 large eggs, plus 1 egg for egg wash
- 22 tablespoons (2¾ sticks; 310 grams) unsalted butter at room temperature, cut into 10 to 12 pieces
for the goo
- Makes about 2 cups (enough for 8 buns)
- ¾ cup (1½ sticks; 168 grams) unsalted butter
- 1½ cups (345 grams) light brown sugar
- ⅓ cup (110 grams) honey
- ⅓ cup (80 grams) heavy cream
- ⅓ cup (75 grams) water
- ¼ teaspoon salt
Method
- Make the Basic Brioche: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment, combine the all-purpose flour, bread flour, yeast, sugar, salt, water, and 5 eggs in the bowl. Mix on low speed until all the ingredients have come together, 3 to 4 minutes. Scrape the bowl if necessary to make sure all the flour is incorporated into the wet ingredients. Mix on low speed for another 3 to 4 minutes once the dough has all come together. It will be very stiff.
- Add the butter to the flour mixture piece by piece, and continue mixing on low speed for about 10 minutes. The butter needs to mix completely into the dough so stop the mixer occasionally and scrape the sides of the bowl and break up the dough with your hands if necessary to help the butter mix in.
- Once the butter is completely incorporated into the dough, mix on medium speed for another 15 minutes, until the dough becomes sticky and soft and somewhat shiny. Turn the mixer up to medium-high speed for about 1 minute and you should hear it make a slap-slap-slap sound as the dough hits the sides of the bowl. Test the dough by pulling at it—when you pull at the dough it should stretch a bit and have a little give. If it seems wet and loose and more like a batter than a dough, add a few tablespoons of flour and mix until it comes together. If it breaks off into pieces when you pull at it, continue to mix it on medium for another 2 to 3 minutes until it develops more strength and stretches when you grab it. You should be able to gather it all together and pick it up all as one piece when it’s ready.
- Place the dough in a large bowl or plastic container and cover the dough with plastic wrap—the plastic wrap should be directly on top of the dough, touching it. Let the dough proof (i.e., grow and develop flavor) in the refrigerator for at least 6 hours or overnight.
- Make the sticky buns: Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Divide the Basic Brioche dough in half; use 1 half for this recipe and reserve the other half for another use.
- On a floured work surface roll the brioche into a tall rectangle, about 12x16 inches, and ¼ inch thick. It will have the consistency of cold damp Play-Doh and it should be fairly easy to roll out.
- In a small bowl, mix together the brown sugar, white sugar, ground cinnamon, and half of the chopped pecans. Sprinkle this mixture evenly over the entire surface of the brioche rectangle.
- Starting from the top (12-inch edge) of the rectangle and working your way down, roll the brioche-like a jelly roll until the entire sheet is rolled up. Roll tightly so you have a nice round spiral. Trim both edges of the brioche roll about ¼ inch to even out the ends.
- Using a bench scraper or a chef’s knife, cut the roll into 8 equal pieces about 1½ inches wide. (At this point the unbaked buns can be tightly wrapped and frozen for up to 1 week. When ready to bake, remove the buns from freezer. Leave them wrapped and let them defrost in the refrigerator overnight, or at room temperature for 2 to 3 hours; proceed as directed.)
- Pour the Goo into a 9x13-inch baking dish and sprinkle the remaining pecans evenly over the Goo. Place the buns in the pan, evenly spaced. Cover the dish with plastic wrap and let the buns proof at warm room temperature for about 2 hours, until the dough is puffy, pillowy, and soft and the buns are touching.
- Heat the oven to 350 degrees and position a rack in the middle of the oven.
- Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, until the buns are golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool for 20 to 30 minutes in the dish. Invert the buns one at a time onto a serving platter and spoon any extra Goo and pecans on top. Serve warm.
- (These are best served right away, or within 4 hours of baking. You could make them 1 day and serve them the next after warming them in a 325-degree oven for 10 to 12 minutes, but at Flour we don’t serve the day-old version of this treat.)
- Make the goo: In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat and whisk in the brown sugar until the sugar is dissolved. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the honey, heavy cream, water, and salt. Let cool to room temperature before using, about 30 minutes. Goo can be made up to 2 weeks in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
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