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SAVORY

Tomato Egg From Kristina Cho

Tomatoes and eggs belong together in dishes from eggs in purgatory to scrambled eggs and ketchup, and definitely in this Chinese tomato egg. There are many ways to make tomato egg, and because it can be such a personal recipe, there are some very strong opinions about the best version. The typical Chinese tomato egg looks like scrambled eggs with big chunks of stir- fried tomatoes. This almost gravy-like tomato egg leans more in the Cantonese direction, which favors silky sauces thickened with cornstarch. The tomatoes are cooked down until jammy and whisked eggs are then gently stirred into the tomato sauce (like in egg drop soup), leaving curds of egg in the wake of the spoon. When it’s peak tomato season, make this with the ripest tomatoes you can find; I love Early Girl tomatoes and heirloom varieties. But even if it’s the dead of winter and all you have are grocery store Romas, the sauce is flavorful enough to bring out the best in them.

Photo courtesy of Kristina Cho

INGREDIENTS

Makes 4 servings
 
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
 
1 (2-inch/5-centimeter) knob fresh ginger, peeled and cut into thin matchsticks
 
10 medium tomatoes (681 grams), preferably Roma (see headnote), roughly chopped
 
3 tablespoons oyster sauce
 
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
 
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
 
½ teaspoon ground white pepper
 
1½ teaspoons crushed red chili flakes
 
1 cup (240 milliliter) water
 
1 tablespoon cornstarch 6 large eggs, whisked
 
⅓ cup (15 grams) chopped green onions
 
Steamed rice (any kind), for serving

 
 

METHOD

COOK THE TOMATOES: In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the ginger and cook until fragrant and just starting to brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, oyster sauce, sesame oil, salt, white pepper, and chili flakes. Toss to combine and cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon or spatula, until the tomatoes are jammy, 8 to 10 minutes. If the tomatoes aren’t breaking down as quickly as you’d like, gently smash them with the back of the spoon or spatula.

In a small bowl, whisk together the water and cornstarch to make a slurry. Pour the slurry into the pan and stir. Cook until the tomatoes have broken down and the sauce thickens, 2 to 3 minutes.

STIR IN THE EGGS: Reduce the heat to maintain a simmer. Drizzle the eggs over the tomatoes, but do not stir. Let the eggs gently cook in the tomatoes until just barely set, 1 to 2 minutes. Add most of the green onions (set some aside for garnish) and gently stir to break up the egg. Take care not to overstir; you want to maintain some larger curds of egg.

Serve with rice and garnish with the reserved green onions.

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